Ditch Bordeaux and Bruges for a wine-tasting adventure in Porto

If you consider Porto, Portugal’s second metropolis, the primary issues that come to thoughts are most likely azulejos adorning each road, spectacular bridges traversing Douro river, pasteis de nata and - after all - Port.

However for too lengthy, considered one of Porto’s key cultural exports has been neglected - regardless of areas just like the Douro Valley usually being cited among the many world heavyweights. What we’re speaking about, after all, is wine - or extra particularly, wine that isn’t Port.

It’s no secret that Europe produces a few of the best wines on the earth. From the rolling vineyards of Bordeaux to the picturesque plateaus of Piedmont, winemaking is a key a part of European historical past. It has performed a giant function in placing sure locations on the map. Porto - and its proximity to the Douro Valley - is firmly on that map.

So why do Portuguese exports nonetheless solely make up about three per cent of the worldwide market share?

I visited the town for 72 hours with the only ambition of discovering out as a lot as I might about Portuguese wine (don’t fear, I didn’t style all 340 varieties produced throughout the nation in that timeframe).

The mission directed me to the most important improvement that's World of Wine, positioned within the metropolis’s Vila Nova de Gaia district. Transferring forwards, we’ll name it WOW as a result of - properly, it's.

Owned by the Fladgate Partnership - a descendant of the Taylor’s Port dynasty - this hub of high quality eating places, suave bars and interactive, partaking museums is altering the sport in relation to educating guests about Portuguese wine.

Right here’s what I learnt.

Portuguese wine is all about neighborhood values

Very similar to the remainder of this various nation, neighborhood is on the coronary heart of Portugal’s wine manufacturing. The angle may be very a lot: we’re rivals on the grocery store cabinets, however how can we share data and study collectively?

Sarah Palmer
Neighborhood is on the coronary heart of Porto's wine trade.Sarah Palmer

Throughout a session at WOW’s in-house wine college all about ‘demystifying wine’, it was put fairly just by our instructor for the day and a grasp within the commerce, Jose:

“What units Portuguese wine aside is its tradition. We compete globally when it comes to our backstory, our know-how constructed over generations, the standard and character of our wine.”

It’s this concept of ‘know-how’ that piqued my curiosity.

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What units Portuguese wine aside is its tradition. We compete globally when it comes to our backstory, our know-how constructed over generations, the standard and character of our wine.

Why is Portugal such winemaking area?

Desirous about the idea when it comes to geography, Portugal is a comparatively small nation, but its total space of vineyards is the fourth largest in Europe. 

There are 340 grape varieties grown throughout the nation. 240 of those are native (all issues I learnt in our two-hour class). That’s lots of overlap between the producers curating their crop - particularly when a majority of them are neighbours working within the Douro Valley.

What makes this specific area so excellent for grape rising is 2 parts. The valley’s local weather and its soil.

Dry and heat by nature, the Douro Valley’s ‘continental’ temperatures can attain 40 to 50C throughout the day and drop to 10C at night time. The vineyards are shielded from unpredictable coastal climate and wind by the Serra do Marão, a conveniently positioned mountain which accurately acts as a pure barrier between the valley and the ocean.

Sarah Palmer
The local weather and soil make this area excellent for grape rising.Sarah Palmer

In the meantime, the soil is essentially slate-based. Whereas that makes it arguably devoid of vitamins, it heats up throughout the day, holds the heat and releases it at night time, retaining the vines cosy. It additionally naturally absorbs lots of water and - as all regional soils do - contributes to the general flavour of the wine.

The artwork of rising grapes in these circumstances has been perfected by means of dialog, tried and examined strategies and sharing what works all through years of winemaking within the area.

Throughout my keep, I used to be a visitor at The Yeatman - a luxurious lodge that nearly mimics a winery in its layered construction - and offers a few of the finest views within the metropolis. It’s been designed so that each room faces out throughout the river, offering company with THE view of Porto. Actually the postcard.

Sarah Palmer
The lodge has one of the best view of Porto.Sarah Palmer

The Yeatman and WOW collectively are intently affiliated with lots of Douro Valley’s high producers. And one-touch which, once more, simply actually introduced residence the sense of neighborhood spirit - was that each room is known as after their companions in wine.

Not solely that however the winemakers, whose names adorn the doorways, put a couple of of their very own private possessions in each. Be it a bottle or two from their winery, their favorite books or some art work.

I left my journey feeling warmed by this data.

There’s much more to wine than what’s within the bottle

The experiences at WOW go above and past simply the liquid within the bottle.

Considered one of WOW’s museums is totally devoted to cork. Portugal is definitely the world’s largest producer of cork, with the world’s largest focus of quercus suber forests mendacity within the south.

One other spotlight is unquestionably the ingesting vessel assortment belonging to Adrian Bridge, CEO of WOW. Courting again 9,000 years, from clay to ceramic and thru to the modern-day glass, it’s residence to almost 2,000 items altogether.

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Admittedly, there’s no chocolate river, however I wouldn’t put it previous the visionaries behind the WOW challenge to discover that as a chance.

However one factor I used to be particularly fascinated with seeing was the a part of the palatial website devoted to chocolate. The Chocolate Story museum is the closest factor I’ve seen to a real-life Willy Wonka manufacturing unit. Admittedly, there’s no chocolate river, however I wouldn’t put it previous the visionaries behind the WOW challenge to discover that as a chance.

Sarah Palmer
The wine tasting confirmed off one of the best Porto has to supply.Sarah Palmer

Now, sit me down in a room with 5 glasses of wine and 5 several types of chocolate and inform me we’re doing a tasting for the subsequent few hours, and also you’ve received one delighted journey author in your palms. Particularly when our host, Pedro Martins Araújo, turns the dialog right into a debate about shopper versus company accountability in relation to the road of manufacturing.

Pedro’s model, Vinte Vinte, is the results of years of analysis, relationship-building and trade experience. He informed us tales concerning the folks he had met in Venezuela, Madagascar, Peru and Uganda.

“One of the best chocolate,” he says, “should not have any greater than two elements.”

I’m not arguing with anybody who essentially believes wine and chocolate is the proper mixture.

What else is there to do in Porto?

Porto is a vibrant, coastal metropolis residence to almost 1 / 4 of one million folks. Small however mighty, locals take nice pleasure in the truth that the town hasn’t been conquered because the 1300s, regardless of France’s finest efforts.

Wandering the colorful streets, crammed with buildings that nearly look askew, might take up a complete day alone.

Porto can be a fast-growing foodie hub - two unmissable dishes embody pasteis de natas along with your morning espresso and the long-lasting francesinha, a meat-stuffed, cheese-wrapped sandwich finest loved with a chilly bottle of Superbock. For the extra adventurous, dobrada is a conventional stew made with tripe (cow’s abdomen) and white beans.

Sarah Palmer
Porto is filled with lovely, historic structure.Sarah Palmer

Should-see sights embody the Ponte de Dom Luís I (not that you may miss it) - a colossal feat of building spanning 172 metres huge and standing two tiers excessive.

A World Heritage Website and positioned within the metropolis’s historic district, Igreja de São Francisco is a must-see for its intricate interiors. The unimposing facade hides a labyrinth of Baroque design that's usually cited because the nation’s best.

The climbable Clérigos Tower is likely one of the finest views in Porto. Taking you 75 metres above the town, it’s price planning the 240-step ascent earlier than you tuck right into a hearty francesinha. Firstly - helps you're feeling such as you’ve earned it. However extra importantly, there’s no medical proof to state simply what the cheese, carb and meat feast does to your arteries, so finest to keep away from vigorous train instantly after consumption.

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Ponte de Dom Luís I is a colossal feat of building spanning 172 metres huge and standing two tiers excessive.Pexels

Within the historic Ribeira district, you may expertise Porto’s heritage as an estuary city firsthand. The clue is sort of actually within the title. As one of many oldest neighbourhoods within the metropolis, it’s one of the best space to search out quiet cobbled streets dotted with hidden eating places and bars that serve native favourites like sardines and seabass.

The majestic Sé Cathedral is a Romanesque Catholic church and one of many metropolis’s oldest buildings. It’s additionally identified merely as Porto Cathedral.

I might go on for hours however my remaining suggestion for a go to is the Bolsa Palace. A dominating presence on the Porto skyline, it has a room made totally of gold leaf. One of many metropolis’s youthful buildings, it got here into being within the nineteenth century - ‘bolsa’ means inventory alternate.

Right this moment, it’s open to guests and is usually used to welcome dignitaries and heads of state to the town.

Although I spent simply 72 hours on this Portuguese metropolis, I learnt greater than I ever thought I'd about its tradition and neighborhood. Considered one of my largest takeaways will probably be simply how neglected this nation is as a producer of world-class wines.

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