The glitz and glamour of leisure is nothing with out the individuals who gown immediately’s largest stars. For “Who’s Behind the Garments,” HuffPost spotlights stylists and costume designers who've delivered a few of our favourite celebrities’ or characters’ most memorable seems to be.
One might credit score how Emmy winner Zerina Akers turned Beyoncé’s longtime stylist to serendipity. In actuality, it’s a testomony to what occurs when divine timing, preparedness and greater than a decade of arduous work coalesce.
In 2013, after interning at W Journal and dealing beneath business trailblazers corresponding to Camilla Nickerson and Lori Goldstein, Akers was able to unfold her wings. Beyoncé had simply launched her self-titled album — and she or he was in search of an addition to her crew.
“How I really landed the place was assembly Kwasi Fordjour over dinner, and I’m simply telling him, ‘I wish to go alone quickly,’ and put myself on the market as a lead stylist,” stated Akers, recalling her dialog with the “Black Is King” co-director. “That was him being like, ‘OK, nicely, Beyoncé’s in search of somebody.’ At that time, you’re similar to, ‘Oh, yeah, simply get me a gathering.’”
Akers, who hails from Prince George’s County, Maryland, was Beyoncé’s private stylist and wardrobe curator for eight years, from 2014 to 2022. A 14-year business veteran, she has expanded her roster and dressed celebrities corresponding to Megan Thee Stallion, Latto, Chloe x Halle and Ava DuVernay.
Akers has landed spreads in Vogue, earned a spot on The Hollywood Reporter’s Most Highly effective Stylists of 2021 checklist and received Stylist of the 12 months at Essence’s Better of Black Trend Awards. Earlier than she clinched an Emmy Award in 2021 for her costuming on “Black Is King,” Akers was a scholar of the sport and had been a fan of Beyoncé for the reason that singer’s Future’s Youngster days.
“It actually was a full-circle second working along with her,” Akers stated. “I've watched the whole lot that she did, so it got here straightforward to me, understanding what you understand, what she’s achieved earlier than, what silhouettes suited her prior to now, although she’s a really completely different girl. There are such a lot of completely different variations of her, however how can I, as a stylist, discover that new model?”
On this installment of “Who’s Behind the Garments,” Akers talked to HuffPost about her in depth profession, navigating visibility whereas styling Beyoncé and spotlighting Black creativity by her platform Black Owned Every part.
From Beyoncé to Megan Thee Stallion, Chloe x Halle, Latto and extra, you’ve styled so many highly effective Black ladies. What's the throughline together with your work, and what are the sorts of shoppers that excite you?
It’s with the ability to work with ladies who're simply actually queens in their very own proper, in the best way that they pursue their very own artwork. So Michaela Coel and Jazmine Sullivan, for instance. However, extra importantly, in these very excessive moments: Jazmine successful her first Grammy, Michaela successful her first Emmy, Latto successful her first award, interval, on the BET Awards. Simply serving to them really feel assured.
That throughline for me is a) confidence and b) for it to really feel pure. I like for his or her fashion to not seem like somebody dressed them — although it finally ends up wanting like, “Oh, Zerina did this,” however it nonetheless feels very pure to who they're as ladies. It gels with their essence versus feeling like they placed on a glance. I’d additionally say the exploration of colour, prints and texture in seems to be, from Michaela Coel’s neon gown to Jazmine’s printed Christian Siriano go well with, that felt iconic and timeless. I feel 20 years from now we are able to nonetheless have a look at that second and that can nonetheless be a really robust second. It’ll nonetheless age rather well, you understand?
Inform me a little bit bit about your journey into styling.
I used to be at all times that younger woman that was into wanting cute, if that makes any sense. I had my little sister. She was at all times a tomboy, then I used to be at all times the very girlie one, posing for footage and issues like that. Loads of it was simply watching my aunties. I used to be raised by my aunt and my grandma, however my youthful aunties have been so fly; I might put on all of their hand-me-downs. I acknowledged the facility that good vogue yields you ― being the very best dressed at school, carrying no matter was in in the intervening time ― and I began to put it to use the place I might. If I couldn’t afford actual designer issues, I finally, in highschool, began to make my very own garments. I tricked myself into considering I wished to be a designer, went on to check vogue design for a brief interval after which converted to advertising and marketing after that.
How would you characterize or describe your private sense of fashion?
As we speak I might describe my fashion as considerably experimental, most likely firstly androgynous. Once I say experimental, I actually like twisted fundamentals. I like basic objects that can dwell lengthy, however they simply have a pleasant twist on them. I've this cool, white button-down shirt that simply has burn marks on it. It’s these items that I really feel like I might have for 10 to twenty years, and each time I put on them, individuals can be like, “The place’d you get that?” They’re very basic, very staple items, however it simply has this very fashionable edge to it. I’m form of a tomboy at coronary heart. Once I go residence, once I’m with my household, me and my cousins are all nonetheless taking part in within the moon bounce and stuff like that. We’re children! We take the youngsters to Chuck E. Cheese, we have now recreation nights round Thanksgiving, and we’re nonetheless very youthful and playful. That’s how we join and love one another.
My little sister has an insane sneaker assortment, and now that she owns all of the footwear that she’s wished, she customizes her personal. By way of rising up along with her, I've a little bit of a tomboy facet. On the finish of the day, I feel all of us ladies simply wish to be comfy, in order that’s actually contributed to how I see myself and the way I gown myself. I’ve been leaning far more into being horny, however general I'm a pants woman. I really feel good in a pleasant go well with or a pleasant pant. I’m not likely the quick skirt woman, however I’m all of these ladies on the similar time. I’ve been leaning into celebrating my physique, not taking myself too severely, and persevering with to experiment as fashion evolves and this Gen Z past-future motion strikes by the business. I’m simply embracing it and making an attempt new issues.
Which manufacturers and labels do you are inclined to gravitate towards, and why?
I like completely different manufacturers for various causes. I actually love Fe Noel for trip vibes and ease and femininity. Glenn Martens, I feel, would most likely be my favourite designer in the intervening time. I like what he’s doing with Diesel, however the whole lot I personal… I’ve been gathering Y Mission and shopping for Y Mission for years. Each single time I put on it, individuals simply fall over. It’s proper there, however nobody’s being attentive to it. It’s simply these very distinctive items that you simply’ll simply by no means discover once more.
I like Sarah Diouf’s Tongoro. I imply, whenever you put on any of her items, it’s a showstopper. My pal Jessica nearly strictly wears her garments. Each time this woman walks within the room, and I personal some items as nicely, she shuts it down. Each head is turned, and it simply actually takes up house. I simply love her for that, and I really feel like each girl ought to have that have.
Who was the primary consumer you styled, and what was it like whenever you landed Beyoncé?
Oddly, Beyoncé was my first styling consumer alone. I had really labored as an assistant for a very long time.I labored [as I was] shifting by the business, from Camilla Nickerson, Lori Goldstein to Derek Roche, [who is] Diddy’s stylist, to Robért Behar, Janet Jackson’s stylist. As soon as I form of landed with a stylist that labored extra so in business tasks — which might be TJ Maxx commercials, Avon advertisements and issues like that — that’s the place I used to be actually in a position to be taught the enterprise. On off-days, in between marketing campaign shoots, we'd do e-comm at Saks, and I might help there. W would do Macy’s catalogs and issues like that. Then, ultimately, working at Brooks Brothers, studying extra males[swear], touring across the U.S., and all of those implausible locations. Ultimately, the chance got here up for me to interview for this place, to be Beyoncé’s private stylist and preserve her private wardrobe. I began in 2014, so the method most likely actually began in 2013.
2013 was [her] self-titled [album]. I had really assisted as a second assistant, with among the mission for a day or two with B. Akerlund. I had a pal, Kareem James, are available in and simply help them, however that was type of separate. How I really landed the place was assembly Kwasi Fordjour over dinner and I’m simply telling him, “I wish to go alone quickly and put myself on the market because the lead stylist.” He was an assistant artistic director on the time who then went on to co-direct “Black Is King.” That was him being like, “OK, nicely, Beyoncé’s in search of somebody.” At that time, you’re similar to, “Oh, yeah, simply get me a gathering.”
How lengthy did you're employed with Beyoncé, and what was the essence that you simply tried to encapsulate when styling her? How would you describe her fashion evolution through the years?
With Bey, I used to be along with her from 2014 up till final summer season, final 12 months. Nearly 10 years, like eight years or so. I can converse to her fashion up till then, however no longer a lot. Typically, for me, working along with her, I’m a fan of Beyoncé. That’s a recognized truth; I’ve at all times been. I used to be a childhood Future’s Youngster fan. It actually was a full-circle second working along with her. I've watched the whole lot that she did, so it got here straightforward to me, understanding what you understand, what she’s achieved earlier than and what silhouettes suited her prior to now, although she’s a really completely different girl. She turned so many various ladies as we’ve watched her since being within the group, going unbiased and changing into a mom. There’s so many various variations of her, however how can I, as a stylist, discover that new model? Discover that new girl? What silhouettes can we discover that she hasn’t earlier than? As a result of it’s straightforward to get caught in like, “OK, nicely, this works for her, so we’re going to do that.” Or, “She’s a bodysuit woman, so the place the physique fits at?” It’s like, how can we nonetheless keep true to the powerhouse that she is however nonetheless strive one thing new to mark these instances and the place she is in the intervening time?
That was at all times my aim as a result of it first began in private wardrobe, the place she was coming out within the streets of New York rather a lot. Lots of people don’t actually know, however that was a number of me as nicely, all these [images of] her going into the workplace. Coloration-blocking and all these types of issues have been nearly like us attending to know one another. Then I used to be in a position to transfer onto doing extra video tasks and issues like that. The primary noticeable one was the “Formation” hat look, however simply that one look in that video. I didn’t do the entire video; then, I most likely did most of “Apeshit,” except for one look, then “Black Is King.”
While you say the “‘Formation’ hat look,” you imply the enduring nonetheless photograph the place she had her center fingers up?
Precisely, which is loopy as a result of that look actually confirmed me that… or, reasonably, reassured me. That was a very pivotal second in my profession as a result of that’s once I actually noticed that I’m now contributing to issues that can outlive me. That picture turned like a logo for a motion, a logo of an period. In Pictionary, you could possibly draw 5 strains and you could possibly guess it. It actually turned a logo of that point and that album. That helped me acquire extra confidence in my voice as a stylist.
You're employed with such robust personalities and figures. How do you, as a stylist, handle all of those completely different tastes? How do you just be sure you’re hitting the mark with every of them with out doing one thing that’s previous or antiquated however doing one thing that makes them really feel comfy and will get the specified consequence?
The fascinating half is that they’re all just about the identical dimension, give or take top a little bit bit right here and there, however they’re all very comparable in dimension. That’s additionally fascinating as a result of a number of the ladies I've styled are curvy. With somebody like Beyoncé, it’s such a touch-and-go as a result of each designer will fall at your toes. Due to her very type of iconic determine, you must be very cautious along with her silhouettes. We’re approaching these new silhouettes in a manner that also feels recent, approaching colour and texture along with her in a manner that feels recent. As a result of seeing Beyoncé in scorching pink excites you, seeing Beyoncé in gold it’s like, “OK, we get it” — however seeing her in neon inexperienced, it’s like she’s proper right here with us.
Working with Meg is a dream. I might say she’s one in every of my favourite individuals to work with. I’d hate to even play favorites, however Megan Thee Stallion is so assured. You possibly can simply gown her or you may put something on her. She could not go for something, however she is ok with each inch of her physique. That's simply so refreshing to work with. It’s so refreshing to decorate her. I at all times type of noticed her as this modern-day pinup woman. She has a pure physique, and I at all times form of thought of her on this very form of basic Pam Grier pure, unique Black magnificence. On the time, I had simply type of moved from Beyoncé to Megan; I might most likely say that I form of overexposed all people as a result of she has a cute stomach and she or he simply by no means had any issues displaying pores and skin. I might undoubtedly benefit from that and have enjoyable with that.
Meg is such a visionary. She’s so artistic and explorative; she’s simply a lot enjoyable to work with as a result of she needs to do all of the issues. She’s younger, and she or he’s making the most of that youth in each manner potential. Everyone form of sees her as the large homie. She at all times look so, so bigger than life, so critical and so robust, however she’s similar to the sweetest, most playful individual that basically needs to have enjoyable and love on all people. The enjoyable factor about Latto is she’s a brand new artist. She is so younger; Latto’s 23, so creating that fashion and dealing along with her to form of actually form her persona is de facto enjoyable. She continues to be a rapper, discovering that toughness. All the feminine rappers are very horny, however she is prepared to mess around with that type of tomboy edge as nicely and convey out that Massive Latto. I liked Latto’s Flaunt shoot. It’s quite simple, however I liked Latto’s [outfit in the] “It’s Givin’” [music video.] It was a quite simple Mugler blazer with a pink glove.
Talking of Latto, you’ve dressed her in Fe Noel, Sergio Hudson and extra. Why is it essential to you to platform Black designers and, within the case of “Black Is King,” Black African designers particularly?
I might say it actually got here from the necessity to supply and safe garments and appears for Beyoncé, particularly, that had an extended shelf life. She couldn’t actually put on all the main designer issues that everybody else was carrying as a result of then it could simply be like, “Who wore it greatest?” If she’s not going out each single day or posting footage each single day, it was simply such a danger. [I was] actually making an attempt to not waste cash like that and waste funds, so I assumed: What if we get some issues which are customized and which are from youthful, smaller designers? Then we take this platform and help to them as nicely?
As a result of Gucci is at all times gonna be Gucci, Chanel is Chanel, and so they’re all going to be in enterprise no matter if she wears it or not. For instance, her carrying Tongoro Studio; I bear in mind she wore it twice in a single 12 months, as soon as on trip and the opposite was similar to a method publish. Sarah [Diouf], who owns the model, informed me that she went from using seven individuals to using 50 individuals. Now she’s turn out to be the primary made-in-Africa model on Internet-A-Porter. That form of attain, you simply by no means know the way far it really goes. I bear in mind Sergio Hudson — and I feel he’s possibly stated this in an interview, which I didn’t know on the time — him type of struggling in the beginning of his profession. We'd meet, he would present me his collections and I might place an order for Bey for some customized issues. He informed me later that these orders or me shopping for samples helped him fund making the brand new assortment. Issues like that helped him actually proceed the enterprise. And have a look at him immediately: He’s in each main division retailer, and after Michelle Obama, it simply blew up. Whether or not it’s serving to them get from that one stepping stone to the subsequent or being that launching pad, both manner, it’s price it. Both manner, it helps.
What are among the challenges of being a Black stylist that you simply encountered early in your profession? Speaking to different stylists, they’ve talked about how sourcing was tough as labels didn’t wish to lend to Black stylists — in order that they’d need to exit of their option to buy and return.
That shit is annoying. I imply, it’s nonetheless like that if it’s not a Beyoncé. Even then once I was styling Beyoncé, it nonetheless was a problem. There have been lots of people that wouldn’t lend to Beyoncé and wouldn’t do issues for Beyoncé.
Even going into shops having to buy, individuals would simply overlook me. After they didn’t, once they have been good, I stayed with them endlessly, and I solely shopped with them for the subsequent eight years. You recognize what I imply? These individuals to this present day would say, “You have been my largest consumer.” Issues like that, buying with the proper group even when it's a division retailer, conserving that circulation inside a sure group has at all times been essential to me.
However, yeah, that’s nonetheless a multitude. It’s really getting worse; it’s turning again the opposite manner, as a lot as individuals are doing issues for the Black group and making an attempt to do these activations and issues like that. Now, on the flip facet, there are manufacturers that now suppose, “I’m gonna be cool and do it the opposite manner.” For those who discover, fashions are getting skinnier and skinnier once more. There’s like possibly one or two plus-size fashions on the runway, and so they’re normally in a black spandex gown. Normally they’re in one thing quite simple relying on the model. Now it’s taken a flip. Vivienne Westwood — I can name it out. We tried to decorate Latto for vogue week, and it was like, “Oh, she’s not on our authorised checklist of shoppers.” It looks like they’ll choose one Black performer at a time. So if it’s not a Beyoncé or Rihanna… they’re actually not giving these ladies an opportunity.
It’s saddening and unsurprising. How does that have an effect on dressing Black ladies who're curvy? Does that complicate your position or the target?
It did. I feel now garments are getting horny once more. There was a very long time, type of post-Phoebe Philo at Celine, the place the whole lot was very frumpy and really artwork cool. While you went to buy, there are specific sorts of clothes which are draped correctly, that would match a curvy girl, that would make an excellent skinny woman look a little bit bit curvier. These objects are at all times bought out, and particularly within the bigger sizes, so why aren’t shops shopping for extra? If these sizes are at all times promoting, why aren’t they rising in bigger numbers?
What do you hope to do subsequent? Who would you want so as to add to your consumer roster? Are we going to see any seems to be of yours within the “Renaissance” visuals?
No, I didn’t work on any of this mission. However I'll say, for me, I type of now not have a want checklist of individuals to work with. It’s a number of strain dressing individuals. Basically, I hope to discover extra design collaborations. I feel there’s simply sure merchandise that ought to be out there that aren’t essentially. So far as the remainder of the 12 months, I’ll most likely take many of the remainder of the 12 months to form of journey a bit. However I’ve been far more intentional about connecting with individuals as the whole lot is type of actually actually open once more, like going to Paris Trend Week to simply really meet individuals in individual once more. I really feel like the remainder of the 12 months goes to be crammed principally with that. I’ll go to Africa in December, for a pleasant lengthy journey. I’m going to Qatar on the finish of this month. I’ll spend a while with household. Perhaps some jobs will pop up right here and there, however I feel the remainder of the 12 months is de facto about connecting and actually setting the intention for subsequent 12 months.
On the observe of strain, working with a consumer as seen as Beyoncé should include a number of critiques. Did you ever take the issues individuals say on-line about her outfits, each good and unhealthy, personally?
Again then, normally, I’d say, with shoppers, it's a number of strain. It is vitally arduous when the Web is now so used to being so imply. It might simply be one photograph in comparison with the subsequent or possibly a nasty make-up day. The outfit might be high quality and possibly the hair is simply not that nice that day, and so they simply go loopy. It’s by no means that unhealthy for me. As a result of the factor is, what individuals fail to form of understand is that it’s at all times the celeb that’s bearing that cross. If I simply put her in some T-shirt with some bizarre slogan on it or one thing, she’s gonna need to take care of that backlash. It’s by no means actually me, per se, however I do take it actually private, even with the platforms. I feel there are a number of these fashion platforms that basically encourage a number of unfavorable chatter of their feedback — and there are others that don’t.
How do you keep impressed and reduce out the noise?
It’s simply form of consistently issues. Now I’m into this extra automated manner of fashion. What’s occurring general with Gen Z, like, I feel it’s hilarious that Madonna has totally tapped into Gen Z at her place in life. I’m so tickled by that. It’s simply form of consistently conserving your eyes open. That might be wherever, whether or not it’s like the road market at Leimert Park [in L.A.] on the weekend or on-line discovering that one random designer with 300 followers.
After we beforehand spoke in 2021, we mentioned constructing your e-commerce platform Black Owned Every part. How has it progressed, and what do you search to realize with it?
It began by summer season 2020. Whereas many vogue insiders have been calling out these bigger homes and these bigger manufacturers, I assumed that that vitality might go rather a lot additional. Even a share of that vitality might go rather a lot additional by shining the sunshine on our creators. I launched the platform and I launched the Instagram [page], which then led to the marketplace. It’s been a little bit of an uphill battle, type of preventing in opposition to expertise. We relaunched the location in December, and we’re form of on a beta take a look at for some new expertise. Now I feel it’s actually time to degree the location up with extra editorial content material and actually give the location a voice. I nonetheless see it as a spot to return in and discover Blackness, from Black writers, photographers, creators, designers, and ultimately previewing quick movies and issues like that to show it into extra of a tradition hub.
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