Sour grapes: Italy takes Slovenia to court over balsamic vinegar production

2022 has seen a slew of high-profile authorized battles, from Johnny Depp vs Amber Heard and Black Chyna vs the Kardashian household within the US, to the notorious ‘Wagatha Christie’ trial of Rebekah Vardy vs Colleen Rooney within the UK.

Nonetheless, this latest one will get you peckish.

The stage is ready for a courtroom showdown between neighbouring Italy and Slovenia over the manufacturing of balsamic vinegar.

The face-off is happening after Slovenia introduced a coverage to call any wine vinegar manufactured from fruit focus as balsamic vinegar.

Sadly for them (or not because the case could also be), the title 'aceto balsamico di Modena' is uniquely assigned to merchandise made within the Modena and the Emilia-Romagna areas of Italy.

Now, scandalised Italians are in search of to dam Slovenia’s categorisation, which they declare threatens custom, together with a profitable €1 billion market which elevated 60 p.c in 2021.

For some further background, the protected denomination of origin (PDO) for balsamic vinegar has been in place since 2009, and applies to balsamic vinegar aged within the Modena vogue for 12 years. Further-aged balsamic merchandise might be aged for 25-years, with some sought-after condiments being aged for as much as 200 years.

Meals within the courtroom?

Trent Erwin
Vineyards in Modena are the one locations that ought to manufacture balsamic vinegar in response to the ItaliansTrent Erwin

Quarrels over the authenticity and provenance of foodstuff usually make the headlines when so-called ‘agropiracy’ happens.

Earlier this 12 months it was dominated that the Danish might now not name white cheese made in Denmark ‘feta’. The transfer was a win for the Greeks, who declare to have a 6,000 12 months monopoly on the product.

Safety of meals by nations and areas is legitimised by eAmbrosia, the EU register which lists French champagne, Polish vodka, and Sneem black pudding from Eire amongst over 1000 different foods and drinks objects.

Meals discovered on the record is entitled to authorized safety to allow preservation of cultural heritage.

Whereas cultural heritage rows can usually erupt exterior of the courtroom within the fashion Valencian cooks being angered by British chef Jamie Oliver’s paella recipe, different circumstances are extra critical.

Lately, UNESCO put Ukrainian Borsch on its endangered heritage record - regardless of protests from the Russian cultural minister - as a result of Russian invasion of Ukraine.

Is Italy more likely to win in court docket?

The authorized case shall be heard on the court docket of justice of the European Union (CJEU), pending a session with the European Fee.

Actions towards Slovenia started beneath recently-resigned Prime Minister Mario Draghi, whose authorities made a precedence of defending Italy’s foods and drinks heritage. Given projections are leaning in direction of a far-right authorities taking on in September, a concentrate on purity of tradition appears unlikely to vary.

Nonetheless, the Italians might not discover themselves as fortunate as their Greek counterparts. 

An analogous case introduced by the nation towards German firm Balema in 2019 unsuccessfully prevented them from utilizing the 'aceto balsamico' designation on meals labels.

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