Review: Kalimera impresses with Greek food in Crouch End

Published:
16:38 December 18, 2021

Running a successful food truck and running a successful restaurant are two completely different beasts. Kalimera has beaten both.

Launched as Greek street food in the Hoxton market in 2015, the company founded by former banker Télémaque Argyriou moved into its first permanent location in Crouch End this summer.

Greek food often does not land in the UK unless they lie by the sea and eat feta a million miles from the knock-off £ 1 blocks that our supermarkets have come to adorn. It feels like a rich but relaxed kitchen that does not do justice over here.

Kalimera, however, seems to resist the trend. Admittedly, there is no sun in Tottenham Lane, but there are plenty of big hits – tzatziki, saganaki, souvlaki, moussaka, olive oil.

For starters, we have pistachio-fried feta with chili honey and baba ganoush along with a beautiful shrimp saganaki in a deep tomato and pepper sauce.

For main courses we have a chicken souvlaki dish with fried potatoes, dildtzatziki, spicy hummus and pita bread – not to forget a moussaka from the high sky.

For dessert, we put in mastic and sour cherries. The choice of cocktails comes in a gin with mandarin, lemon sorbet and basil.

Pistachio fried feta
– Credit: Caitlin Caprio / Kalimera

Moussaka
– Credit: Caitlin Caprio / Kalimera

In addition to the dishes, the decor – smooth yellow, white and green – is enough to make you feel like you have entered an establishment with taste.

But not so much that it goes at the expense of atmosphere and conversation. There is a buzz about the place which feels relaxed.

Pictures on the walls show the Greek beginnings of the restaurant
– Credit: Caitlin Caprio

Télémaque is friendly, without being powerful. He guides us through his choice of menu. His family in Laconia, southern Greece, has been growing olive trees for 200 years, the fruits of which are appearing on our plates. So of course we trust him.

A passion for Greece and its culinary heritage clearly runs through Kalimera. Take a closer look around the restaurant – its name means good morning in Greek – and some of the products come from nearby Crouch End stores. A nice touch.

In addition to the food, I get the clear impression that Télémaque is a man who knows – or should know – how to run a business. Born in Athens, he spent 17 years with BNP Paribas, climbing the ranks and covering roles in London, Paris and New York.

The owner will need all that banking sense to survive Covid’s cruelty. But as for a new food truck restaurant, it’s a seriously impressive start.

Kalimera is at 43 Topsfield Parade, Tottenham Lane, N8 8PT. For more information visit https://ift.tt/3p9U5vg